BIKE: Hauling 1000lbs with a bike

[Librik or Babich]

Patrick Goetz wrote:

> OK, couldn't resist posting this link:
>
>     http://www.bikesatwork.com/hauling-cargo-by-bike/hpv-cargo-capacity.html
>
> Question:  I wonder if there are some design conditions for the bike in
> order to facilitate this.  For example, at the very least it must
> require disk brakes and ultra-low gearing...
>
> The complete line of trailers is here:
> http://www.bikesatwork.com/bike-trailers/truss-bike-trailer/

I had one of these trailers for a while back when they were sold under the Fresh
Aire name. I will admit that I prefer unibody vehicles for really big loads,
since one can get a wider track for better protection against rollovers when
cornering on a reverse banked curve. My most common need to move such loads is
when I take all my recyclable paper and cardboard down to Balcones Recycling on
E. 6th Street. Mostly, it is the ability to move a large volume item, like a
boxed bike or a photocopier, that makes such equipment useful on a regular
basis. Beer kegs are another important consideration for modern American sinners
like myself.

Having hauled 800 pounds of compost from Howard Nursery to the Sunshine gardens
with my Tri-Hauler, I think the weak link is the spokes, as these start breaking
once the load gets too big and you start bouncing over the pot holes. Brakes are
not much of a consideration, actually, since you just do not let the thing get
up to any appreciable speed. Even on downhills, one is just too aware of the
mass being towed to let the bike get going too fast. My TH has only two
cantilever brakes. In fact it used to have just one hydraulic brake lever
actuating two hydro rim brakes, except the fluid line kept popping off its
fitting and leaving me with no brakes, aside from jamming my foot up against the
front wheel ("brake shoe"). Now it is cable brakes for me.

I think 10 gear inches is more appropriate for getting such loads into motion.
The best way to equip a bike for this kind of duty is to use a hybrid hub on the
rear, which slips a 3 speed hub into one's front/rear derailer system, giving
something like a 1150% range at full build out. Realistically, one might as well
do away with the FD and use a single small chainring. Again, the hybrid hub is
the only way to easily undergear a 26" wheel bike. Also, the ability to
downshift it at a stop is particularly useful in this application. On the other
hand, one can get much the same kind of useful range by putting a MTB
transmission on a bike with 20" wheels.

I have come to prefer trikes for towing such loads, since they can remain
functional at the super low speeds one must use for moving big loads. In cases
where my Tri-Hauler is not appropriate, I now use a British Miklink trailer (500
pound capacity, with moped wheels, designed to help Ugandan farmers move their
wares to market), towed by a Sun EZ-3 trike.

Anyone with a serious interest in this kind of technology can subscribe to
workbike to discuss these matter with folks who lug these kinds of
loads all the time.

--
Mike Librik, LCI #929
Easy Street Recumbents
512-453-0438
45th and Red River St., thereabouts
Central Austin
info
www.easystreetrecumbents.com
www.urbancycling.com

"Is it about a bicycle?"