BIKE: Safe? Yes.

[Librik or Babich]

danceswithcars wrote:

> ... The route is
> okay except for the last 2 miles.  This two mile stretch is on a two lane
> narrow road with absolutely non-existent shoulders and the posted speed
> limit is 40 MPH.

Is that all?

> I fear there's not enough room for me to ride unless I
> take the lane, ie. make following traffic actually move over into the
> opposing lane to pass me.  I really want to commute by bicycle but I'm not
> sure I could do it safely.  Your opinion greatly appreciated.

Since there is no avoiding them, you will just have to live up to your login
name and dance with those cars. Yes, it absolutely can be done, but you have to
open your mind a bit.

Stephen Wechsler wrote:

> Believe it or not, there are some people on this list who are opposed
> to bike lanes that separate us from the cars.  They would have us ride
> in the same roadway with the cars.  Maybe they could suggest something.

That would be me. Though I am not opposed to bike facilities on country roads
like this, it is just that in the absence of such publically-funded niceties,
one must make do with what is there.

The first need is for equipment. When one has to interact assertively with cars
coming behind, one needs mirrors, preferably two, in order to track and analyze
the behavior of pursuing cars from as early a moment as possible. Do not be
guessing about what is going on back there. On open highway like this, cars can
be detected from a considerable distance.

I recommend handlebar mirrors over helmet mirrors (Mirrycle brand mirrors are
the best, IMO), though the design of one's bike may force one to use the
latter. An extra advantage of handlebar mirrors is that pursuing drivers are
more easily aware of the cyclist's mirrors, and the cyclist can use more
distinct body language to indicate to the pursuing drivers that he/she is
looking in the mirror. This helps to keep a motorist from losing patience with
an oblivious cyclist who just seems to be tootling along in their own little
world.

Once the cyclist knows about a pursuer, the next need is to communicate with
it. The first and most obvious thing that is communicated is the cyclist's
presence, which the motorist must become aware of as early as possible. Second
is to communicate the intention of holding the lane. The motorist must be clear
ASAP that the *only* options are slowing/queuing or else crossing the
centerline. This gives the motorist time to prepare for this reality.

The danger is the motorist who decides to pass the cyclist within a lane that
is too narrow to share. Granted, most overtaking cars will change lanes, at
least partially, to pass, even if the the cyclist has crammed themselves
against the edge of the road. The problem is when oncoming traffic or blind
curves/crests prevents this, but the overtaking motorist decides to "thread the
needle" and rocket past at top speed within the lane with inches to spare. They
must be discouraged from even considering this option at as great a distance as
possible. This is solely the cyclist's responsibility, and the sooner one
swallows this fact, the sooner one can start dealing with such lanes.

The best product for this task is the remotely activated strobe, such as the
Lightman Commuter. This is a high powered taillight, not suitable for
continuous duty like an LED due to its rapid battery consumption. I recommend
having two strobes: one amber, one red. The switches are on the handlebars,
under one's fingers, for instant switching.

Putting it all together, the moment a pursuing car is detected, one should
switch on the amber strobe and make sure one holds the center of the lane.
Analyze the road ahead, and if oncoming traffic or a blind curve or crest is
present, then prepare for additional measures. Make sure to position the bike
firmly in control of the lane. Oncoming traffic makes this all the more
imperative. The moment one sees the pursuing car begin to cross the centerline
(to pass), switch off the strobe and shift slightly to the right. I should
clarify that one should not shift right until one has detected that the
overtaking car has started across the centerline. If one shifts too early, one
invites the car to attempt a pass within one's own lane. I think it is
important to respond quickly and obviously to the car's crossing of the
centerline, since one wants them as positively disposed toward you as possible
when they are closest. Once the motorist exposes themselves to the risk of
oncoming traffic, respond to get them quickly and safely past. They need to see
that you are trying to work with them for maximum mutual safety, and you are
not just some bozo out hogging the road on his/her two-wheeled toy.

If one senses that the pursuing car is approaching in a fast or reckless
manner, put on the red strobe. I think it is best to phase in the red strobe,
and not just start it at the same time as the amber one. When the car begins to
respond to your presence, turn off the red strobe. Also, if some hazard that
will keep the overtaking car from changing lanes is detected ahead, turn on the
red strobe and move left in the lane. The cyclist, in the lead, may detect such
hazards before the pursuing car, so he/she should make an effort to communicate
this knowledge. Do not force the motorist to make difficult decisions at the
last moment.

In the event that a car is seen trying to shove closely past the cyclist, the
best response I have found is to take one's eyes off the mirror and look
sharply right at the edge of the road. This gives two benefits. One is that the
bike will start to make its way right, and not have the risk of wobbling left
into the overtaking car. Second is that one is not confronted with the sight of
the car at minimum distance, saving a bit of personal stress. In the time
allowed by highway speeds, this response is all one has time for.

When my wife and I travel to Bastrop on our tandem, we deal with about 30 miles
of narrow 2-lane highway with traffic speeds of 55-70 mph. We make a point of
equipping for visibility and communication, even at the cost of extra weight or
aerodynamic penalty. But we are not out there to see how fast we can go, but to
reach our destination with safety and minimal stress. True, I cannot just zone
out and meditate on my cycling computer or the surrounding countryside. I have
to constantly interrupt my thoughts with mirror checks, and when a pursuing car
appears I must give it steady monitoring and prompt signaling to make sure it
is doing what I want it to. That is, I must keep my mind on the traffic.

But if one wants to be safe in such circumstance, one has to take the trouble
to engage the situation. Equip your bike for the job, and not for Le Tour.
Total cost of strobes and mirrors is around $125. Please do not complain that
the bike itself cost only $75 at a garage sale. Traveling on such highways is a
serious business and it cannot be done with toys. Like I said, one must open
one's mind and face certain realities. Cars and hospital expenses are much
costlier, anyway.

I would be happy go into further details about this off list.

--
Mike Librik, LCI #929
Easy Street Recumbents
512-453-0438
45th and Red River St., thereabouts
Central Austin
info
www.easystreetrecumbents.com
www.urbancycling.com

"Is it about a bicycle?"